Wiper condition
Problem: The windscreen wiper is making noise and causing streaks on the windscreen.
Solution: Windscreen wipers need to be replaced preferably every year, just before the monsoon season. Wiper blades are made of rubber which can get hard and brittle due to cold winters followed by hot summers. This causes an uneven wiping surface on the wiper blade edge. Sometimes the wiper blade rubber can tear, exposing bare metal, which can irreversibly damage the windscreen.
If you do not want to buy a pair of wipers yet, you can get some 400 grit (fine grade) sand paper and gently rub it across the blade edge. That will even out any imperfections. Don’t overdo it as you will damage the wiper.
Windshield washer
Problem: There is no or poor spray from the windshield washer. The spray does not come out at all or does not have enough pressure.
Solution: When you pull the windshield washer switch, listen for a humming sound from the engine bay. If you get that humming sound and there’s no water coming out of the spray nozzle, first check if there is windshield wash fluid or water in the container. If that’s there, check the tubing from the container to the wash nozzle for leaks. If none are evident, it could be that the nozzle itself is blocked. Take a pin and clean the nozzle holes. Spray a lubricant spray on the nozzle to rid it of any debris that has blocked it.
If you don’t hear a humming sound, check the fuse for the washer motor (refer your owners’ manual). If that is in order, check the motor itself – you will need professional help here. It may need replacement.
Body protection
Problem: My car paint looks dull after the rains. Some areas of the body have begun to rust. What to do?
Solution: It is always good to get the car completely washed and serviced just before the rains. Then apply a good coat of wax polish on the body to protect it. Repeat the application once a month to protect the finish. Never use household detergent or soap to wash the car. Use a wax based car shampoo instead.
If you live in a coastal area, you should consider getting additional underbody anti-rust protection, which is a spray-on special coating that will protect the car from rust. Some service stations also spray used motor oil on the underside of the car in areas where there is heavy rainfall, as this provides some temporary protection – but is not a good practice as it traps dirt. Lubricate all the moving parts and door locks in the car with an anti-rust lubricant spray like WD40.
Misting up
Problem: How to prevent my windscreen from misting up on the inside in heavy rains or in cold weather?
Solution: Most cars have a windshield demister setting in the air-conditioning system. In cars with automatic climate control, just hit the demister button and you should be fine. In cars with manual HVAC controls, set the air direction switch to the windshield setting. Set the recirculation / fresh air setting to fresh air. Move the temperature control from extreme cold to a more moderate setting and switch on the AC. The AC helps to dehumidify the car and in turn demist the windshield. In extreme cold weather, you can run the AC compressor even with the temperature control set to warm for a few minutes to dehumidify the car. Drive with the fresh air setting on and air flow control set to the demister. If you don’t want to use the AC, opening the windows just a bit will help prevent misting up.
In cars that do not have a demister or even an air-conditioner, take a cake of soap and gently slide it across the inside of the dry windshield, forming a thin protective layer. This prevents mist build up on the windshield, but it can cause a few streaks on the glass.
For the rear windshield too, just directing the AC air flow towards the rear will help keep the windshield mist free. But don’t do this for too long, as if the glass becomes too cold, mist will form on the outside! Ideally, you should have a car that has a rear wiper – this is a real boon in the rains, especially for hatchbacks and SUVs, where dirty road spray obscures rear vision.
Tyre condition
Problem: My tyres tend to lose pressure in the rains. They also don’t grip as much and tend to skid on wet roads.
Solution: The rain is not really directly responsible for tyres losing pressure in rainy weather. Instead, it is the change in temperature that results from a sudden downpour that causes pressure to drop. Tyre pressures can fall as much as 1psi for every 5-10 degrees C of temperature change.
It is a good practice to inspect your tyres just before the rainy season and change them if you have less than 10% of thread left on the tyre (less than 2 mm). Tyres with a deep tread pattern have an advantage as they last longer and can siphon off water easily. Maintain the optimum tyre pressure to prevent aquaplaning. Do not speed up when driving on wet roads.
Water in Electronics
Problem: I was driving through a large puddle of water which splashed into the engine and my petrol car stalled. What to do?
Solution: Water splashing into the engine bay can be a huge issue in low-slung cars in the rains. In petrol cars, if water falls on the ignition components, it can cause the car to stall. Water on the coil or on the plugs (and distributor in older cars) can cause it to stall. You will need to get the car to a dry area, blow dry the engine with high pressure air if possible and then spray an anti-moisture lubricant spray on the electrical components. To prevent this happening, it helps to spray lubricant before you head out into the rains itself and avoid driving through large puddles.
Water in the engine (Hydro-lock)
Problem: Driving through a large puddle causes water to enter the exhaust pipe, stalling the car. Or water inundates the air filter, causing the car to stall.
Solution: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO START THE CAR. Car engines work on compressing air, but if water has gone into the cylinder, it cannot be compressed and will damage the valves and engine. Get the car towed to a service centre and open up the engine to clean out the water. Change the engine oil and filter. This is again a common issue with many low slung sedans. One option to prevent this happening is to raise the height of the air intake, with a sort of snorkel (that’s the reason off-road vehicles have high snorkels to easily ford water crossings).
Water in fuel (Diesel Vehicles)
Problem: The water in fuel light on the instrument panel of my diesel vehicle keeps glowing. What to do?
Solution: This is a common issue with many fuel stations in the rain, where some water tends to contaminate fuel stored in underground storage. In the car, the diesel filter is meant to take care of this. Water in fuel collects at the bottom of the diesel filter in a small chamber. When this fills up the warning light comes on. Refer your owner’s manual to locate the diesel filter. At the bottom of this will be a small screw or cap (depending on the car model), which will need to be opened to drain the water out. Blow dry with compressed air and refit. If this is done in time you won’t have problems, but if left unattended, it will lead to loss of power and sediment build up on the valves.
Preventing fungus growth on the carpets and seats
Problem: My car gets a white fungus growth on the carpets and seats in the rains. What to do?
Solution: Fungus loves dampness. But fungus also hates acidic solutions. The easiest way to get rid of fungus would be to air the car out in direct sunlight, but we’re talking about dealing with the issue in the middle of the rainy season. You could make a spray solution with white vinegar, spray it on the seats and wipe it with a towel. For the carpet, you can sprinkle boric acid powder over the affected areas, let it sit for a bit and then vacuum it up. For hard to reach areas, use a brush to remove the fungal spores.
Keeping the windshield clean
Problem: My windshield has a lot of streaks even if I clean it with a cloth, causing glare at night.
Solution: Use a water first and then a windshield cleaning spray solution to spray and wipe the windshield with a microfiber cloth. After that dampen the windshield with a little water and wipe it clean with a newspaper – not the glossy kind though. For some reason, newspaper and the newsprint in it seems to work really well in giving you a clear, glare-free windshield. But do this only on a windscreen that has already been cleaned with water, otherwise grit on the windscreen can get trapped by the paper and scratch the glass.
Clutch won't work
Problem: I just drove through the flooded road, but now I can't shift gears easily. The clutch is juddering and the gears are not shifting. What to do?
Most cars run a dry-clutch mechanism, where the clutch sits in an assembly between the engine flywheel and the transmission. This dry clutch has ventilation holes as well as a gap for the clutch cable or linkage mechanism to activate the clutch. Hydraulic clutches will have a slave cylinder that operates the clutch fork. When you drive through flooded roads, water can enter the clutch housing and wet the clutch. The clutch plates have an asbestos based friction material, that can get soaked in water and become damp. When that happens, it can stick. This stickiness results in the clutch juddering as it does not engage smoothly and if it is too damp, the clutch plates won't separate and so it become difficult to change gears. The only solution for this is to get the car to dry ground and let it dry naturally. If you don't force the clutch or the gears, you won't damage the clutch, but if you rev and try to force it, you could end up with more expensive damage. Also see: How to Identify Clutch Problems
Brakes are not working
Problem: After driving through a waterlogged road, my brakes are not holding. What to do?
This is a common problem with driving through waterlogged roads. Once you have driven through water, you need to dry out your brakes, as otherwise they will not engage. One way of doing this is to start repeatedly pumping the brakes as soon as you have crossed the flooded section of road and wait for them to bite. Or you can put your car into a lower gear (second gear), drive slowly giving constant throttle, and simultaneously apply very light pressure on the brake pedal with your left foot (be careful, as you will sometimes end up jamming the brake). This can be done in petrol cars, but some newer diesels won't allow accelerator and brake to be pressed at the same time. For these, repeatedly pumping the brakes works best.
Have a lovely Rainy August…Cheers!
Source : mATa302NGXb
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